Winter in the Northern California Garden

In the San Francisco Bay Area there’s always something growing — the hardworking  gardener earns no vacation here, save maybe the gloomiest January days.  The blessing is that even during the coldest stretches, when a daily blanket of frost dusts the grass at sunrise, we’re treated to all kinds of hearty greens and brassicas like chard, cauliflower, broccoli, brussel sprouts (all pictured above), kale, arugula and lettuces, while at the same time, we’re snipping fresh parsley, rosemary and thyme from the herb patch to toss into steamy pots of homemade soup. With the addition of our Fuyu persimmons and soon-to-ripen navel oranges, our household is well-stocked with fresh food should unexpected disaster ever hit.  Come on over.

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Indian-Style Mustard Greens

When you’ve reached your limit of leafy greens sautéed in the Italian style with garlic, try this Indian-inspired twist that’s full of spicy flavor. Any type of leafy green can be used (chard, kale, spinach), just cook greens until tender (some will need less time than others). Substitute whole, canned tomatoes in winter months — they’re usually better than any fresh ones you find this time of year. Garam masala is an Indian blend of warming spices (cinnamon, coriander seed, cloves, cumin and more) that adds just the right punch. You’ll find it in most grocery stores, or any Indian market.

Serve with Indian flat bread such as naan or parantha (sometimes spelled paratha) and yogurt raita. You can make your own parantha or purchase at an Indian restaurant or market. Frozen naan can be found at Trader Joe’s.

Ingredients:

  • Olive oil
  • One small onion, chopped
  • One teaspoon garam masala
  • One teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  • One Tablespoon minced fresh ginger
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
  • 1-1/2 pounds mustard greens, stems removed, roughly chopped
  • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
  • Juice of one lemon
  • Salt
Method:
  1. Warm 2 Tablespoons oil in a large skillet.
  2. Add onion, garam masala, coriander and cumin and sauté until onion is soft (about 5 minutes).
  3. Add ginger, garlic and turmeric and cook for a few more minutes.
  4. Add mustard greens, stir well to mix greens with spices and onion and continue to cook for 10 minutes.
  5. Add tomatoes, lemon juice and salt to taste.
  6. Cook for a 3-5 more minutes until tomato is soft.

Beet Crumbs

So many winter roots are lacking in color — turnips, parsnips, rutabaga, celery and parsley roots, for instance.  A few, like sweet potatoes and carrots offer shades of yellow and orange, but none are more vibrant and bold than dark Big Red, candy-striped Chioggia or fiery Golden beets.  It’s tough to miss these colorful orbs in a winter vegetable line-up at the market.  Still, folks often pass them by. How many of us willingly tuck into the pickled beet on a plate? In earlier days I passed beets off to my enlightened, beet-loving sister.  It wasn’t until they found a regular spot in my CSA delivery years ago that I resolved to find a way to cook with them.  And love them, too.

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French Lentils with Sautéed Mushrooms and Roasted Vegetables

This recipe was adapted from Clean Start by Terry Walters. Here’s a great opportunity to clear out the fridge, as nearly any winter root (or squash) will work wonderfully.  French green lentils are smaller and darker than brown ones.  They hold their shape in cooking, so are better for salads and pilafs.  You’ll find them at Whole Foods and many grocery stores.

Serves 6

Ingredients:

  • 3 cups peeled and cubed (3/4 inch) mixed roots or winter squash (such as carrot, parsnip, turnip, rutabaga, celery root, potato or butternut squash)
  • 1 large onion peeled and cut into ½ inch wedges
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • ¾ cup dry French green lentils
  • 3 cups vegetable stock or water
  • Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 2 Tablespoons lemon juice (plus more)
  • 1 Tablespoon butter
  • 4 cups thinly sliced mushrooms
  • 1 Tablespoon white wine or sherry
  • 1 Tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
  • 2 Tablespoons fresh parsley leaves

Method:

  1. Preheat oven to 400 ° F.  Toss roots with olive oil to coat.  Place on a baking sheet.  Toss onion with olive oil to coat and place on a separate baking sheet.  Roast both until tender (onions will take about 25 minutes, roots about 35).  Turn once or twice during cooking.
  2. While vegetables are roasting, place lentils in a saucepan with water/stock and a pinch of salt.  Bring to a boil; reduce heat and cover.  Simmer until tender (about 20 minutes).  Drain well.  Toss with one Tablespoon olive oil and one Tablespoon lemon juice.
  3. In a large skillet, heat butter with one Tablespoon olive oil.  Sauté mushrooms until they’ve reduced in size and browned in many spots.  Add sherry and one Tablespoon lemon juice.  Add thyme and cook until liquid is mostly absorbed.   Fold in lentils and roasted vegetables (with any caramelized pan drippings).  Heat through.  Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Toss with parsley and add more lemon juice or olive oil as needed for taste.

Chocolate Beet Cake

We’ve made this cake for years — it’s sneaky fun and invariably fools even the most astute taste buds. It’s not overly sweet. With a dusting of powdered sugar (perhaps some whipped cream) for serving it’s just right for most tastes, but if you prefer a sweeter cake, add another ¼ cup of sugar (either kind). You can also increase the cinnamon to one teaspoon if you like a stronger taste of spice. Prepare the beet purée by roughly chopping peeled, cooked beets, then processing with a scant amount of water in a blender or food processor until smooth.  For cupcakes, bake at 375 degrees in prepared muffin tins (greased or lined with paper cups) for about 20 minutes (makes 18).

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