Holiday Cooking Memories

Christmas sugar cookie shapes wait for decoration.

Starting about October this family dives, head first, into a holiday season packed with cross-cultural destinations.  Diwali, the Indian “festival of lights” often starts us out (link to journal entry), but sometimes it’s an American favorite, Halloween.  Soon we’re preparing for Thanksgiving, featuring a bird-less feast inspired by culinary delights from around the world (link to journal entry).  December brings holiday parties, cookie exchanges and an ample amount of general over-indulgence (isn’t that part of what it means to be a holiday?).  If we’re lucky, we get invited to celebrate Hanukah with Jewish friends, but if not, we’ll often celebrate anyway in our own naive way.

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Potato and Kale Cakes with Rouille

From Bon Appetit Magazine, January 2011

These delightful cakes remind me loosely of aloo tikki, a potato-based mainstay of Indian snack foods called chaat – perhaps a distant American cousin? My daughter pointed out that these cakes are also reminiscent of the Irish potato and kale (or cabbage) dish Colcannon (a recipe for which can be found in our archives).

Such golden, smooth and starchy gems are sure to satisfy our comfort food cravings during cold winter months – but not in an over-the-top way like the potatoes mashed with an entire stick of butter that we ate at Christmas. I admit it’s true, but the dish did serve 13 people (including a few hungry teenagers).

Ingredients:

Roille –

  • ½ cup mayonnaise
  • 1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, pressed
  • 2 tsp tomato paste
  • 1/8 tsp smoked paprika
  • Pinch of cayenne pepper

Cakes –

  • 1 ½ lbs unpeeled russet potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1 inch cubes
  • ¼ cup whole milk
  • 2 Tbsp (1/4 stick) unsalted butter (to lighten, you might consider cutting down on this a bit)
  • 1 tsp coarse kosher salt, divided
  • 3 ½ Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided
  • 1 cup chopped onion
  • 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
  • ½ lb kale, center rib and stem cut from each leaf, leaves coarsely chopped
  • 1 Tbsp chopped fresh thyme
  • 1/8 tsp ground nutmeg

Method:

  1. Rouille – Whisk all ingredients in medium bowl. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
  2. Cakes – Cook potatoes in large saucepan of boiling salted water until tender, about 25 min. Drain; return to pan. Add milk and butter. Mash until smooth. Season with ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp pepper. Transfer 3 cups mashed potatoes to large bowl and cool (reserve remaining potatoes for another use – snack opportunity!).
  3. Heat 1 ½ Tbsp oil in a large deep skillet over medium heat. Add onion and garlic. Sauté until onion softens, about 5 min. Increase heat to med-high and add kale and thyme. Toss until kale wilts, about 5 min. Add kale mixture, ½ tsp salt, ½ tsp pepper and nutmeg to potatoes; blend. Cool mixture for 30 min.
  4. Shape potato mixture by ¼ cupfuls into ½ inch-thick patties. Arrange on a baking sheet.
  5. Heat 2 Tbsp oil in large nonstick skillet over med-high heat. Add cakes and cook, without moving, until cakes are brown and crispy on the bottom, 3-4 min. Carefully turn cakes over and cook until brown on bottom, 2-3 min. Transfer to plates. Top each cake with dollop of rouille.

Happy New Year!

It’s a time for resolutions, reflection and new directions – we cut back a little while determinedly trying to fit into those pants that suddenly seem a bit too tight.  Luckily there’s a full bag of fresh, organic fruits and vegetables on the counter just waiting to be rinsed, cut, roasted, sautéed, tucked into a warming soup or simply popped, without any treatment at all, right into our mouths.  Wholesome goodness ready to nourish our bodies and souls while also reorienting our eating habits after weeks of, let’s just admit it, whole-hearted over-indulgence.  The good news is that getting back into a routine of healthy eating doesn’t need to be bland, boring or devoid of pleasure – in fact with the ready assistance of a little olive oil and some herbs and spices, all of the components of this week’s bag can be served up in a fabulously flavorful way, while reining in the fat and calorie load to a reasonable, pre-holiday level.

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Cranberry Chutney

Adapted from Neelam Batra’s 1000 Indian Recipes, this fruity, sweet-tart chutney is a guaranteed hit on any holiday table. You’ll have enough from this recipe to send home with appreciative friends and family after the feast. The chutney keeps well in the fridge for at least a couple of months and frozen for 6 months or more. After the holidays try serving this tangy condiment with Indian samosas, crackers and goat cheese, potato pancakes or even spread on thinly sliced bread with cream cheese for a distinctive tea sandwich.

You can find all the spices at any Indian grocery store. Bengali 5-spices is a blend of cumin, fennel, black mustard, kalonji and fenugreek seeds, commonly used for flavoring fruit chutneys and as a pickling mix. If you can’t find it, substitute as many of the whole seeds as you can find – the first three should be fairly available. The blend is worth a trip to the specialty store though, and you’ll be glad when you see the prices (much, much lower than the big grocery chains). I use a minimally processed sugar such as Turbinado, but you can use plain granulated sugar.

Ingredients:

  • 2 Tbsp Bengali 5-spices (Panch-Phoran), coarsely ground
  • 1 Tbsp vegetable oil
  • 2 (1-inch) stick cinnamon
  • 8 cardamom pods, crushed lightly
  • 8 whole cloves
  • 2 1/2 Tbsp peeled and minced fresh ginger
  • 2 (12-ounce) packages fresh cranberries, washed
  • 3 1/4 cups sugar
  • 4 cups water
  • 1 Tbsp ground ginger
  • 1 1/2 tsp salt, or to taste
  • 2 1/2 Tbsp lemon juice and 2 1/2 Tbsp white vinegar
  • 1 tsp lemon zest

Method:

  1. Prepare the 5-spices (use a spice grinder or mortal and pestle to coarsely grind). Then, heat the oil in a large non-reactive wok or saucepan over medium-high heat and cook the cinnamon, cardamom pods, and cloves, stirring, about 30 seconds.
  2. Add the fresh ginger and panch-phoran and cook, stirring, about 1 minute. Add the cranberries, sugar, water, ground ginger and salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 7 minutes. The cranberries will pop and break down as they cook.
  3. Reduce the heat to medium, uncover the pan, add the lemon juice, vinegar and lemon zest, and cook until the chutney thickens, about 10 minutes. Transfer to containers, let cool, and serve at room temperature, or refrigerate and serve chilled. Will keep in the fridge for several months.