“New York Times-Dining-Sectionitis”

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After writing about my cookbook fascination last Wednesday, this week I feel the need for further confession.  Besides the book thing, I’ve also got a New York Times Dining section habit.  The two kind of go hand in hand, and in fact, many of the cookbook authors I enjoy most have columns or occasional writing gigs at the newspaper.  My timing, it turns out, is sadly coincidental with the recent news that one of my favorite Dining writers, Mark Bittman, has retired his fantastic column, The Minimalist.  Dining section junkies across the nation are feeling a bit wistful this week, so please go easy on us.

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Green Rice

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Many cultures serve a “green” rice pilaf – this is a Persian version. You can try substituting spinach for the parsley without altering the flavor substantially. Also try increasing the amount of herbs a bit – if you like your rice really “green”. The saffron is not essential – if you don’t have it on hand – though it adds a lovely flavor so characteristic of Persian cuisine. The dried lime can be found at any Persian or Middle Eastern grocery (try Rose International Market in Saratoga or Mountain View). You can substitute fresh lemon for the dried lime – cook the rice with 2 tsp lemon zest, and squeeze 2 Tbsp lemon juice on the rice just before serving. I use less water than is called for in the original dish to create a drier, less sticky grain.

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Middle Eastern Style Chickpeas with Greens

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Middle-Eastern Chickpeas with Spinach

This recipe found its inspiration, once upon a time, in the Moosewood Cookbook series, essential references for anyone who strives to reduce meat consumption, but demands a dish full of mouthwatering flavor.  You can adapt and substitute freely—try just about any green you have on hand, or a different bean like white cannellinis or dark red kidneys.  Or toss in a cubed carrot or other winter roots as you sauté the onions and peppers.  In summer months eggplant or zucchini would be a perfect addition.

Ingredients:

  • 2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 2-3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 sweet bell pepper, seeded and cubed
  • 1 tbsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1/2 tsp paprika
  • pinch of saffron (optional)
  • 1 ½ cups chopped tomato (fresh or canned)
  • 1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  • Salt
  • 1 bunch coarsely chopped greens, such as spinach, kale or chard
  • 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice, or to taste
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Method:

  1. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium heat, add onion and cook soft, about 5 minutes.
  2. Add bell pepper, garlic and spices. Sauté for 5 more minutes, stirring frequently.  Add tomato and cook until tomato breaks up and becomes soft and most of its liquid has cooked off.
  3. Add chickpeas, about ¼ cup of water and one half teaspoon salt. Stir to combine.  Cook for 10 minutes, adding some water if mixture starts to stick to pan.
  4. If using spinach, turn off the heat and stir in the leaves, until just wilted.  If using more substantial greens such as kale or chard, cook for a few minutes over medium-low heat.  Add lemon juice and more salt to taste.
  5. Garnish with fresh cilantro.
  6. Serve with Middle Eastern flat bread, couscous or rice, for instance Persian Green Rice.
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